(Click photo below for full size)
In the first photo (top left), you can see that I have taped over the exposed parts of the rim with painters tape. Also note that I have pre-drilled all the tack holes. This allows me to make sure the are all evenly spaced. The holes are barely smaller than the shanks on the tack, so the hold when pushed in, but are not to hard to apply. I use a small mallot to band them in completely. In addition, I have laminated the top of the inner rim with a single, 1/8" thick, .75" wide strip of maple. When the skin tightens up, it can really pull on the rim, sometimes forcing it slightly out of round, especially with a 1/4 inch rim. Nothing is worse than shaping your heel precisely for a snug fit, and then having to redo it completely once the rim shifts!
In the second photo (top right), you can see the glue having been applied. I soak skins for 25 to 30 minutes, and apply the glue 15 minutes before I take the skin out of the water, to allow time to get tacky.
In the third photo (bottom left), you can see that I have rough cut the excess skin. Note that I use two large rubber bands to hold the skin down and to help mitigate wrinkling. Once the rubber bands are on, I hold the side of the rim up to a space heater, and slowly rotate it, allowing even exposure of the sides to heat. Once the sides are dry, I begin to dry the top.
In the final photo (bottom right) I am slicing off the excess skin while it is still slightly moist, and therefore much more pliable. Always use a new blade for this so you dont have to press too hard and slice into the wood of the rim.
A lot of people swear by the practice of leaving the skin out to dry. This works fine, but I am impatient. I have never had a problem drying the skin this way, and it's then ready to use in about an hour. The only important precaution is to make sure you have dried the sides before focusing on the top. That way, when the head starts to contract, It will already be nicely anchored, otherwise it will pull the wet skin up from under the tacks, and tear, ruining your head. Wait to do your final skin trimming until everything is nice and dry, as the slice-line can move noticeably once the skin shrinks.
I hope people find this helpful. I don't want to clutter up the hangout - most everything I post here is posted in the banjo building blog on my website. I may just keep posting there instead, so definitely bookmark it if you're interested in making tackheads.
tackhead minstrel banjos made to order
www.jaymoschella.com
No comments:
Post a Comment